The organising committee of the World Junior Rowing Championships 2009 had as its vice-president and motivator none other than our friend Lionel Girard from Nantes. The format of Rowing World Championships follows a template set up by FISA, so much of what happened was predictable.
Lionel invited me to go as a volunteer, so for a few days in August I became (according to my security pass) BEWICK, Julien (FRA). One goes away from these occasions with various memories, and here are some recollections from my stay just outside Brive-La-Galliarde, in south-west France.
The Lake
The lake is a reservoir, made in the 1970s by flooding a valley. It has now been there long enough to blend in with the natural scenery, and is a first-rate venue for rowing as well as a base for a holiday in a beautiful part of France. The lake is surrounded by hills, and the water is flat, giving very fair racing conditions. The only disadvantage is that the rowing lanes are quite a long way from the bank, so spectators do not see crews at close quarters, and crews cannot be urged on very much by the crowd.
The B&B
Most people connected with the regatta stayed in hotels in the town of Brive, some 8 km away from the course. I was luckily allocated to an excellent newly restored Gite/Chambre d'Hôtes, overlooking the course. I recommend it. (www.le-pigeonnier-de-lissac.fr)
Food
The lake is in the centre of one of the gastronomic areas of France, and I found myself going out to dinner on the four nights that I was there.
First night
Dinner with Lionel and Dorota Girard and a few friends in a small restaurant in town. Snails, duck, profiteroles (quite the best I've ever had!). And good company. Lionel, as always, switched easily between languages, but I found myself understanding a bit more French than usual.
Second Night
I went out with the Umpires on their night off. We met at 5 pm, and were taken for a coach ride to visit Turenne, a very old hilltop village, not very far away. The coach wound its way through several hamlets on the way, and at times it had about an inch to spare on either side as it worked its way along roads never designed for coaches. During this tour, we had a running commentary from a local who is an expert on history, architecture, and truffles (a local delicacy). We arrived at the lowest point of Turenne at about 6 pm, and saw the village stretching up to the top of a fairly sizeable hill. Our guide announced that we were going right to the top, where there was a small castle and a lookout tower. The walk was going to take two hours. At this stage one or two of the umpires took fright and decided to spend two hours at the lower end of town, where there were several bars. I decided to be brave, and set off fairly slowly. Every time the main group stopped for an explanation, I plodded on, so was often in front.
After we had been right up to the top of the tower, where there were stupendous views of the surrounding countryside, we went down to near the bottom of town again, and sat down for an excellent meal in a very old restaurant. My table had about 10 people on it, and the conversation took place in English, French, Russian, Norwegian, Polish, Serbian - and that was just at my end of the table. The dinner finished with short speeches of thanks in all these languages and more. A very happy occasion.
Third Night
The official Nations dinner was attended by representatives of many of the 60 nations represented at the championships - these ranged from the more well-known rowing nations, GBR, FRA, AUS, USA, NZL, etc, to others which readers may find harder to identify - CRO, RSA, IRI, PER, BLR, CYP, SIN, ISR, SRB, KAZ, etc. The custom in France is that speeches are made at the beginning of the dinner. The Championships had been funded and supported by various bodies: the local club, the town council, the Department, the region, etc. Representatives from all of these spoke. Not only did they speak at length, but each speech was started (In French) with "Mr Mayor, Mr Deputy, Mme Secretary of this that or the other...". This introduction went on for some time for each speech. Then of course it had to be translated into English. An almost audible moan went up from the 300 hungry diners, until the English translator stood up to translate, "Mr Mayor..." He cut what would have been a long story short by saying simply "Dear Friends", at which there was much clapping and encouragement to continue to be short and to the point. Towards the end of several political speeches, a quiet comment was made by somebody at my table: "They are talking to themselves and not to us." A shrewd remark, which those who make speeches might perhaps bear in mind. Our French hosts were, I think, as unimpressed by the speeches as their guests were, but we all realised that the bodies being represented were funding the event, so we listened politely, while working up an appetite.
Fourth Night
The dinner on the fourth night was a simple buffet for the 300 or so volunteers who had helped to make the regatta work. A very pleasant occasion.
The GB Supporters
If the French were perhaps let down by their unnecessarily long speeches, the British were, not for the first time in my experience, let down by their supporters, who are so keen that they shout for GB at the slightest opportunity. The routine for presenting medals follows a carefully thought out protocol. Finals take place at 15 minute intervals, so, as an example, the 1545 race is about to finish at 1552, and the competitors are cheered by their supporters as they pass the grandstands. Meanwhile, the medal winners from the 1515 race are waiting quietly near the presentation stand, ready to be marched on as a group as soon as the 1545 result has been announced at 1548. Attention focuses on them from about 1548 to 1559, a minute or so before the 1600 race starts. I hope you are with me so far - you might have to draw a diagram!
Meanwhile what about the medal winners in the 1530 race? They keep in the background, or may possibly finish their warm down a bit early and bring their boats to the presentation raft to disembark. They have had their moment of glory at the end of their race at about 1535, and their next moment of attention is their presentation ceremony which starts at about 1608.
There was a British medal winning crew in the 1530 race. When their boat appeared near the presentation raft at about 1550, the GB crowd erupted, shouting "GB, GB", drowning out the presentation ceremony for the 1515 race medallists, some of whom happened to come from countries with few supporters present. I was sitting amongst the French crowd at the time, and had to apologise on behalf of GB to my hosts. The British crowd need to be reminded about manners.
A similar incident involved a recent GB senior medal winning crew, when, if my memory serves me right, the national anthem of another country was disrupted by the GB crowd.
Enough said.
There were happier aspects of the regatta. It was good to see the small team from Iran sitting at a table at lunch not very far from the Israeli team; athletes from two other countries who are technically at war rowed on the same lake and dined in the same tent.
And the rowing was good too. Well done GB on gaining gold in MJ4- and silver in MJ8+.
BEWICK,Julien (FRA)